Timeless tastes: Beloved local icons of Biddeford and Saco

Pizza by Alex has been a fixture in Biddeford for decades. PHOTO BY CALLY GUDROE
Cally Gudroe, UNE Community News Fellow
Sat, Dec 7, 2024
Since its founding in 1960 by Alex Mantis, Pizza by Alex has become a beloved fixture on Alfred Street in Biddeford.

Run by the Mantis family for over 60 years, this pizzeria is renowned for its warm, family-friendly atmosphere that attracts patrons of all ages. Manager Chris Rowe, who has been with the establishment for 32 years, shares his love for the camaraderie among employees and the welcoming environment. Their commitment to homemade ingredients sets them apart from other pizzerias and keeps customers coming back year-round.

Rowe started working at the pizzeria in 1992, when he was a junior in high school. Previously employed at the Lobster Claw on Ocean Park Road in Saco, Rowe sought a job at a restaurant that operated year-round, which led him to Pizza by Alex. Over the years, he worked his way up the ladder, and is now responsible for overseeing the entire pizzeria. He has dedicated himself to preserving the family-like atmosphere and quality service that make Pizza by Alex special.

Originally located in a series of storefronts further down Alfred Street, where a veterans memorial now stands, Pizza by Alex moved to its current location at 93 Alfred St. in 1967 to expand its dining room and accommodate more customers.

In 1972, the pizzeria expanded once more, buying out a neighboring driving school to add a second dining room. The interior has remained largely untouched since, preserving a retro charm that’s beloved by the local community. Rowe notes that keeping the original decor helps long-time customers relive cherished memories, from first dates to family gatherings. In fact, Rowe met his wife here.
Staff at Pizza by Alex prepare pizzas. PHOTO BY CALLY GUDROE

Customers are at the heart of Pizza by Alex, and many regulars have been coming in since the early days. One such patron, Rachel, has been enjoying meals here since she was 25. Now 77, she still visits frequently, drawn to the familiar faces and warm ambiance.

To give back to this supportive community, Pizza by Alex holds fundraisers, like a recent event for the Barbara Bush Children’s Hospital that raised $2,200. The pizzeria also hires local kids, offering them jobs and a place to grow.

“The customers keep this place running,” said Rowe.

When it comes to the pizza, everything is made with precision and care. Pizza by Alex is known for its unique cheddar cheese blend, a departure from the traditional mozzarella, and its house-made sauce, seasoned with a secret family spice blend. The dough is made with high-gluten flour, though the restaurant now offers a gluten-free option to accommodate all customers. Depending on the humidity, the dough proofs at room temperature and then put in the refrigerator to keep it just right. Each pizza is prepared in a 10-inch pan.

The dough is hand-flapped with a twist of the wrist to create the perfect base, said Rowe. It is then topped with sauce, hand-sprinkled cheese, and freshly cut toppings, including vegetables and hand-sliced pepperoni. They staff prepare about 144 pies each Monday morning, and continue this process throughout the week, as needed.

“It’s a lot of love, a little bit of labor, and, in the end, we get our pie,” said Rowe.

In addition to Pizza by Alex, the Biddeford-Saco area is home to other long-standing establishments that have become cornerstones of the community, each with their unique histories and contributions to the local culture.

Reilly’s Bakery, located at 232 Main St. in Biddeford, has been a cherished part of the area since its founding in 1910. Now in its fourth generation of family ownership, the bakery is a quiet but constant presence in the lives of its customers.
Reilly's Bakery was founded over 100 years ago. PHOTO BY CALLY GUDROE

Known for their handcrafted pastries, breads, and desserts, Reilly’s is often described as a “silent partner” in life’s most important moments, from weddings to funerals and the birth of children. The bakery also plays a significant role in the holiday traditions of many local families, creating a sense of nostalgia and continuity.

As the current owner, Elizabeth Hussey, reflects, “When people come back year after year, there’s a nostalgia that comes with all of those memories because we’re always a part of those big life moments.”

Across the river in Saco, Vic & Whit’s, a beer and wine shop located at 206 Main St., is another beloved local staple. Founded in 1972 as a sandwich shop on Beach Street, before relocating to its current historic building, Vic & Whit’s continues to serve the community under the stewardship of Mark Johnston and his ex-wife and business partner, Beth Johnston. Mark established Vic & Whit’s at age 19 with Beth, and has spent more than 50 years fostering a welcoming environment for locals and tourists alike.
Vic and Whit's has been serving up sandwiches on Main Street in Saco for decades. PHOTO BY CALLY GUDROE

As a former Mayor of Saco and a deeply rooted community figure, Mark Johnston has made the shop a place where neighbors can gather to share stories and discuss local issues. With retirement on the horizon this December, Mark is planning a transformation for the space. A neighboring coffee shop will expand into part of the building, a coffee roaster will be in the back, a caf will stand in the small park located outside of the building, and a smaller wine shop run by Beth Johnston will carry on Vic & Whit’s legacy. The shop will close on Dec. 31, with hopes of reopening in the spring and early summer of 2025. “Running a small business is hard work,” said Mark Johnston, “so in leaving this business behind, we hope to help others begin their journey.”

Meanwhile, Rapid Ray’s, located at 189 Main St. in Saco, has been a fast-food institution since it began in 1953. Founded by Rob Roberge’s grandfather out of a small van that operated late nights near an old gas station, Rapid Ray’s has grown into a landmark destination. Known for their freshly ground beef and authentic approach to hot dogs and hamburgers, Rapid Ray’s was a go-to spot for generations of locals seeking a bite after movies, bars, or late shifts at work.
Rapid Ray is a fast food institution in Saco. PHOTO BY CALLY GUDROE

Roberge, who started working there at 15 and has carried on the family tradition for over 30 years, reflects on the deep community ties forged by the business.

“His respectable nature drew a lot of the community in,” Rob said of his grandfather.

Though the business no longer operates as late as it once did, the original 1986 design of the building and its reputation as a hub for fond memories and late-night bites remain unchanged. Rapid Ray’s continues to bring customers together, many of whom recount stories of meeting their significant others there.

Cally Gudroe is a freshman at University of New England