After more than 35 years of slinging hash and flipping pancakes, Steve Lee is hanging up his apron and calling it a day at Twin City Café in downtown Biddeford.

Lee’s last morning behind the grill at the downtown breakfast joint will be Christmas Eve. His lease expires at the end of the year and the business is already up for sale.

Lee, who said he’s always been in the restaurant business, is looking forward to traveling – especially to Yosemite National Park, where he spent a year when he was younger.

The pull to revisit Yosemite is strong: “I think about it every day,” Lee said. “I had a cabin right by the falls.”

He was working for his cousin in Texas when he decided to open a place of his own.

“I decided to move back East and ended up in Biddeford,” said Lee, a tall, white-haired man with piercing blue eyes and a full beard.

He took over what was then Jeannie’s, renamed it, and the rest, as they say, is history.

The space at 48 Alfred Road has “always been an eatery,” Lee said. “I took it over from her.”

The menu was simple and hearty, with many regulars stopping in to enjoy traditional menu items like eggs with breakfast meat and toast, omelets and breakfast sandwiches. 

Lee also plans to see Key West, Alaska and “everything in between,” along with visiting family along the East Coast and Washington, DC.

“I’m going to check up on the government and oil the wheels,” he deadpanned.

After opening at 5 a.m., seven days a week, 364 days a year – except Christmas Day – there’s no doubt Lee has earned a rest.

“I can’t wait; I’m ready to go,” he said on Dec. 21.” My body is feeling it.”

Lynda Mouzas, who’s been at the cafe almost as long as her boss, agrees it’s time to move on.

Mouzas has waitressed at Twin City for 35 of the 37 years it’s been open and said she’s also spent all her working years in the restaurant business.

Her parents owned the former Puritan restaurant, which is now the Happy Dragon, right down the hill. 

“We’re both ready” to move on,” Mouzas said.

Mouzas said she plans to stay in the hospitality business. She bartends as well as waits tables, filling in at local social clubs such as the Eagles and Amvets.

Lee, who has four children and grandkids, also plans to spend more time with them and his nine siblings.

His wife, Joni, is happy he’s retiring, but she’ll continue to work in the health care field. Joni will take some time to travel with her husband, though.

Lee said he’s definitely seen changes in downtown Biddeford since opening Twin Cities Cafe.

“In the ‘80s it was a lot busier. … but the ‘08 recession was” very, very hard” on business.

“The COVID-19 pandemic killed everything,” in Lee’s opinion, “People are less likely to socialize,” he said.

His business survived by offering takeout and “it’s booming right now,” attributing the cafe’s popularity to the blue-collar atmosphere and inexpensive menu.

Lee has already enjoyed a send-off with his Wednesday group of buddies from their basketball-playing days, who “surprised him with a lot of fun stuff,” such as a GPS, cards and wine.

After he locks the door behind him at Twin City Cafe for the last time on Dec. 24, Lee will gather on Christmas Eve with his family and “We’ll kill two birds with one stone.”

“My wife always puts on a big feed,” he said, but this year the clan will also celebrate his retirement.

The one thing he’s looking forward to besides hitting the road?

“I’m anxious to sleep in and see what that’s like.”

Ann Fisher is a freelance journalist based in Saco. She can be reached at 432-7483.